When it comes to preparing your work area, be conservative. Spending a little extra time removing items that may not be completely necessary to remove is almost always a better use of time than halting your work later on to, for instance, uninstall a toilet that's in your way.
Detach any baseboards. Next, remove any baseboards — the small wooden "trim" pieces at the bottom of a wall — that run along the edges of your floor. Usually, this can be accomplished by carefully prying with a pry bar, flat head screwdriver, or sturdy putty knife.
To prevent damage to your wall, try inserting a small block of wood behind your prying tool as you work the baseboard away from the wall. This keeps your tool from scratching against the wall and provides additional leverage. Remove baseboard nails. After you remove your baseboards, quickly examine your bottoms of your walls near the floor to look for any leftover nails sticking out of the wall. Carefully pull these nails out of the wall with a pair of pliers, the "claw" end of a hammer, or a similar prying tool.
If left in, these nails can present problems when attempting to lay your linoleum flat against the wall. Patch up pre-existing flooring material. Linoleum must be laid over floor that's as close to perfectly smooth and even as possible.
If it isn't, the underlying imperfections will eventually be reflected in the linoleum itself, resulting in unsightly bumps, ridges, soft spots, and so on. If you plan to lay your linoleum over the existing floor, check it to make sure that it is level and free of imperfections. If you plan to lay it over the subfloor, remove your existing flooring and check whether the subfloor is in good condition. If your floor or subfloor isn't completely even and level, you may want to try fixing minor issues with the tips below: [4] X Research source Concrete floors: Level high spots with a grinder or masonry chisel.
Fill in small holes or cracks with additional concrete. Wood floors: Use an embossing leveler to fix minor dents and indentations. For more serious issues, use plywood underlayment see below.
Existing linoleum floors: Repair worn sections of floor or indentations with an embossing leveler apply with a straightedge trowel. If any sections are damaged or loose, remove the linoleum and work off of the subfloor. Use a plywood underlay, as an alternative. Some floors and subfloors just aren't suitable for supporting linoleum flooring — either they're too worn or damaged to easily repair or you'd like to keep the floor material for use in other projects.
In these cases, it's usually best to use a plywood underlayment to support the linoleum. This provides a smooth, even surface for the linoleum to rest on, bypassing the problems of using a damaged or worn floor entirely.
For tight seams for your plywood pieces, use a pneumatic stapler about every 8 inches Don't forget that using an underlayment will raise the level of the floor slightly, which may require you to shave off a small amount of material from the bottoms of any doors in the room.
Part 2. Determine the amount of linoleum you'll need. Now that your floor is ready for linoleum to be installed, it's time to measure it so that you'll know precisely how much linoleum to use and exactly how to cut it. You have several options for measuring your floor — just a few are listed below. Regardless of which method you use, it's important to make your measurements as accurate as possible so that your linoleum will fit precisely against your walls and appliances.
One option for measuring your floor is to lay down a large sheet or sheets of a heavy paper like butcher paper across the area of floor you intend to cover with linoleum.
Use a pencil to precisely trace the edges of the floor area. Cut the shape of your floor area from your paper, then use this as an outline when you cut out your linoleum.
Another option is to use a tape measure to obtain measurements for all of the sides of your flooring area. Sketch these results on a piece of paper and use your measurements to cut your piece of linoleum. This method is especially handy for square or rectangular sections of floor — all you need to do is measure two perpendicular sides and you'll know exactly how much to cut. Mark your cutting lines on your linoleum. Once you have a paper outline of your floor area or precise measurements and a rough sketch, you're ready to mark your linoleum material with its final shape.
Use a washable marker to trace your paper outline or use a straightedge and tape measure to draw lines according to the floor measurements you took. Linoleum is usually sold in 6 or 12 foot 1. For larger projects, it's OK to use two or more pieces. It's almost always a good idea to mark your linoleum floor pieces about an inch or two wider than they need to be.
While it's fairly easy to trim the edges of the linoleum to make it fit your floor space, there's no way to make a piece of linoleum that's too small bigger , so be conservative when cutting your linoleum.
Cut your linoleum. Once you know the exact dimensions of the floor area you intend to cover, you can begin cutting your linoleum. Note that, for the most accurate fit, it's best to use linoleum that's been allowed to acclimate to the room for about a day see above. Use the measurement or outline you took to cut your linoleum in as few separate pieces as possible. To cut your linoleum, use a sharp utility knife or a hooked linoleum knife and cut along your pre-marked lines.
Use a straightedge to ensure an accurate cut. If you have some handy, put an extra layer of plywood underneath your linoleum as you cut it to avoid gouging your floor. Lay your vinyl down and trim to fit. Carefully move the cut linoleum piece s into position and lay it down. Work the linoleum around any corners and obstructions, taking care not to crease it. If you marked and cut your linoleum so that you have an extra inch or two on every side, the extra material will lay up against the walls.
Use your linoleum-cutting tool to carefully trim the edges of your linoleum so that it lays flat on the floor and is flush against the edges of the flooring area. Below are a few tips for trimming your linoleum to fit snugly: Straight walls: Use a straightedge or straight piece of wood like a 2x4 to crease the linoleum against the corner where the wall meets the floor.
Cut along the crease. Inside corners: Use V-shaped cuts to shave excess material off of the linoleum where it meets the inside corner. Cautiously remove thin strips of material until the linoleum just lays flat against the floor. Outside corners: Make a vertical cut inward from the corner at a 45 o angle. Shave material off from both sides of the corner until the linoleum sits flat against the floor. Apply adhesive. Now, peel back half of your floor. Use a notched trowel to spread adhesive on the underside of the linoleum.
Follow the linoleum's recommended directions for use — some linoleum is meant to have adhesive applied evenly across the entire underside, while other types of linoleum are meant to have adhesive applied only along the edges. Allow the adhesive to sit briefly most adhesives used for this purpose recommend doing so to achieve the best hold , then roll it back down and carefully press it into its place on the floor.
Repeat for the other half of the floor. Always defer to the usage instructions included with the products you buy, including your adhesive. For linoleum requiring adhesive all over its underside rather than around the perimeter , leave a few inches along the edges without adhesive. Linoleum can shrink and expand slightly when exposed to glue, so wait to apply adhesive to the edges until this settling has occurred.
Part 3. Secure the linoleum with a roller. Use a heavy roller a pound model should work well to remove air bubbles from the linoleum and securely adhere it to the floor or subfloor. Work from the middle of the floor to the edges, taking care to carefully roll over the entire floor.
If this forces excess adhesive out from under the edges of the linoleum, use a solvent to dissolve it and remove it with a wet rag according to the manufacturer's directions. Finish the linoleum sealant. If installing over a wood substrate, an underlayment will generally be necessary. Installing over a concrete substrate will not require an underlayment but will require some floor preparation. You will need to give attention to the height of your appliances to counters and cabinets if an underlayment is required.
Moisture testing for installations over concrete is required by manufacturers, so please understand that if your installers perform that task. In some cases, yes. This is where employing qualified flooring professionals really pays off. They can determine if your existing vinyl flooring is acceptable or if it will need to be removed. Three methods are used to install vinyl flooring depending on manufacturer and style: Full Spread, Perimeter Adhered or Floating.
Full Spread means the adhesive is trowled over the entire substrate. Perimeter Adhered is an installation method in which adhesive is only applied to the perimeter of the flooring and also at the seams. Floating is a type of installation in which the vinyl flooring is not bonded to the substrate by any adhesive.
Your beautiful new vinyl floor will be professionally installed using one of those three methods. Remove all furniture and other objects and materials from the areas where the installation will take place.
Some installers will move your furniture, but there may be an additional charge for doing so. Be aware that the area of installation must be climate controlled heated or air conditioned. Please consider how your old floor covering will be taken up and disposed of. This can be a time consuming task. We recommend that you check with us about the cost and the method of disposal. Cut down the tiles to the appropriate size to fit in against the walls.
You will need to use your utility knife to do this. Be sure to figure in any pipes which might protrude through the sub-floor itself. Begin applying your adhesive to the tiles.
Then start putting down tiles in smaller five foot square sized areas once you have pre-determined your final desired layout. Go in a circular motion when applying the adhesive utilizing the trowel. Be sure to only pick up tiles one by one. Once you put on the adhesive to the one tile, push it securely into place before moving on to the next linoleum tile.
You will repeat this process again and again until you have completely put down the entire floor. You will need to rent a one hundred pound floor roller from a tool rental retail location. Utilizing this one hundred pound floor roller, roll the entire floor thoroughly to make sure that you have both a securely and firmly installed floor. Finish up the job by reattaching all trim and baseboards which you removed at the beginning of the project.
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